Saturday, October 4, 2014

So You Want To Create A Composite Image In Photoshop...


An example of a recent composite I created by "cutting out" the model and layering her into a different background
A few years ago, I saw some of Joel Grimes' work for the first time. I was blown away. The final images he created by taking one image, cutting a portion out, layering it into a different background, and then adding his unique processing techniques, made my jaw drop. The more of his work that I saw the more I knew that I had to learn how to create composite images. I reconciled myself to the fact that I wasn't going to create anything remotely approaching the level that he had reached, but I had to start from scratch and gradually improve with practice.

Trying my hand at turning a mundane automobile image into something a little more eye catching
Since then, I've had a chance to learn from Joel, Pete Collins (Kelby One's Photoshop Guy), Julieanne Kost (Adobe), and Glyn Dewis (UK photographer extraordinaire), picking up some of their tricks, techniques, and work flow as I continue to bumble my way through the world of compositing. I'm still a long way from approaching the work these folks create, but I get better every time I dive into Photoshop to create a composite.

Changing the mood of a studio model shot by layering her into a different background
These are some of the composites I've created as part of my learning process. None of them are as good as they could be with more practice and experience. I still struggle getting shadows and highlights to be in the right places, edges of the image layered into the background being too harsh, yadda yadda yadda. That's OK. If I learn one new trick or one new step that generates a better image than my last effort, that's what it's all about.







Other composites I've created as I experiment with the technique

If you've never tried to create a composite, read on. I will do my best to give you a step by step process that you can hopefully follow from start to finish. It's hard to explain some of the steps with words rather than you actually being able to watch the process unfold but here goes. I will assume that you have a basic, working knowledge of Photoshop and that you are using one of the later versions (I will be using Photoshop CC). The earlier versions of Photoshop may not have all of the features that I will be using below (e.g., Camera Raw Filter in the Filter drop down menu) so you may have to improvise if you're running an older version.

OK, enough with the small print. Let's get started. I'll begin by showing you the final image that we will create - The Bodybuilder.

The final image
This composite used two images - a background image of a subway tunnel and a studio shot of a bodybuilder flexing his muscles. Step one is to open both images in Photoshop:

Both images opened in Photoshop

Dotted lines delineate the selected areas
Choose the Quick Selection Tool
The next step is to work with the image that will be layered into the background which in this case is the bodybuilder image. Make this the active image in Photoshop and click on the Quick Selection Tool - it's the 4th tool down from the top if your tools palette is oriented vertically like mine (as shown on the left). Make sure that you have it selected as the active tool instead of the Magic Wand Tool by right clicking on the tool and selecting the Quick Selection Tool (a small white box lets you know which tool is active). Adjust the size of the tool so that it's relatively small and begin the selection of the image that will be "cut out" and layered into the background - as you left click inside the area you want to select, hold down the mouse button and move the cursor around. You will see dotted lines begin to take the shape of the cutout as you move the cursor around, delineating the selected portions. If the selected area extends beyond what you want, press down on the "Option" key (for Mac; for PC's, use the "Alt" key). As you move the cursor outside the area you want to select while holding the key down you remove the unwanted selections. With time and patience you will eventually have the area you want to select completely outlined within the dotted lines.

Dotted lines delineate the selected area
Next use the Refine Edge feature of the Quick Selection Tool. With the selected area still active, click on the "Refine Edge" button at the top of the Photoshop page (the last button that says "Refine Edge…" - see below):

The Refine Edge button at the top of the Photoshop page
That will open up a box that gives you some options with the selection you've made.

The Refine Edge box will pop open after you click on the button
The Refine Edge box with the various adjustment options
Adjust the "Feather" and "Shift Edge" sliders as I've done above - add feather and shift the edge inward. You'll have to experiment with the settings because the amount of feather added and the reduction in the edges is dependent upon the file sizes you are using. The larger the file size, the more aggressive you need to be with the settings. Your goal is to shift the edge inward (a negative number) and add just enough feather so the image edges are ever so slightly blurred. This will make your selection look more realistic when you drop it into the background. As Pete Collins once reminded me, objects are three dimensional and the edges of the cutout image need to be blurred slightly in order for them to look right when pasted into the background image. Joel Grimes calls this "selling the fake". The more realistic you can make the "fake" (the composite), the better the overall image will appear.

Notice that I have clicked on the "Decontaminate Colors" box towards the bottom and that I have set the Output to "New Layer With Layer Mask". The Decontaminate feature removes any color cast from the edges of the image that may have digitally spilled over from outside the selection. As for the Output, you'll definitely want to have it as a new layer with mask. When you click on the "OK" button, your selected area will be on a transparent background and when you move it onto the background the mask will give you the flexibility of further refining the cutout if need be by using the Brush tool on the mask. You'll see in a minute why this is desirable.

The Move Tool - first tool from the top in the Tools box. It's the cross with the arrow on the left
You're now ready to move the cutout into the background. Click on the "Move Tool" (see above) and move the cursor onto the selection. Hold the Left mouse button down as you begin to move the cursor up to the top of the Photoshop box where the two open images are listed.
Dropping the cutout into the new background
Moving the cutout up
The darker of the two image names at the top will be your background image. The lighter color image name identifies that active image - the cutout you are moving. As you drag the cutout up towards the top of the box, the cutout will move up with the cursor. Continue to move the cursor up so the arrow points at the background image name (the darker file name). Like magic, the background image will appear on your screen. Move the cursor/cutout  down into the background and you will see your cutout appear. All that's left is for you to position the cutout where you want it as I've done below.

Cutout has been dropped into the background layer and positioned where I want it





By moving the cutout onto the background, what you've essentially done is create a layer on the
The Layers palette (on the right) shows you the layers & any masks
background. If you open your Layers palette there will be two small thumbnail images in the dialog box, one of the background image (identified as Background) and the other of the cutout (identified as Layer 1. At this point you are free to process each image as you see fit individually by activating whichever one you want to process. To make processing easier of individual layers, disable the layer you're not working on by clicking on the "eye" to the left of the Layer description. Of course, you can choose to process both simultaneously by flattening the layers but that will limit your flexibility as you move forward. With the bodybuilder image we're using here, I chose to process each image separately.

Since each of us has different processing ideas, techniques, work flow, and software, this tutorial will now shift to how I processed the images to create the final composite image I posted at the beginning.

Drastically increasing the highlights to create a backlighting effect
I started by processing the background image. To create the effect I wanted (a surrealistic backlighting behind the bodybuilder), I first had to increase the exposure of the image and drastically increase the highlights and whites with the Camera Raw Filter. I also used the Brightness and Levels adjustments to increase the highlights even more. I then converted the image to Black & White using the Grayscale converter within Camera Raw (see below).
The HSL/Grayscale tab in the Camera Raw Filter (fourth from Left)
From the File menu, I then scrolled down to "Automate" and selected Perfect Effects 8 to further process the background.

Sending the image to Perfect Effects, a Photoshop Plugin I use regularly
In Perfect Effects, I played with the tone enhancer presets, black & white presets, dynamic contrast presets, grunge presets, and HDR presets to get the right mix that yielded what I wanted.

Perfect Effects allows me to add/delete effects and see how they affect the image as I experiment with them
After I got the background to look like I wanted, I applied the changes and moved on to the cutout. I  activate it in the layers box and tweaked it with the Camera Raw Filter (adjusting the exposure, highlights, shadows, whites & blacks) then opened it with Perfect Effects 8. As with the background, I played with the presets and after the image looked the way I wanted, I applied the changes.

The presets I used created a hard edge around the image which might be fine if I wasn't creating a composite
After applying the Perfect Effects presets to the cutout, a problem cropped up - the presets created hard edges that looked like a black outline. This is where having dropped the cutout in as a layer with mask came in handy. I clicked on the mask and used a small brush with the hardness set at 0% and the opacity at 50%-75% to carefully run the brush over the black line edges. This removed them in short order and it made the cutout blend into the background much better than if I had left the black edges intact.

To finish up, I flattened the layers and saved the final image. Again, here's the final image after the steps above, "The Bodybuilder". 


Now that you know how to create a composite, let your imagination run wild and start cutting and pasting images. You are no longer forced to live with what could be a great image but for the crappy background. The best part is, if you don't like what you end up with, you can always start over. All you've lost is time and you probably learned something along the way. Mahalo, ya'll.

Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Easy Peezy Way To Transmit Images

Tired of burning discs and dropping them off after a photo shoot? Looking for a way to quickly transmit images to an out of town client without having to e-mail them one at a time? Trying to figure out a way to send a client a huge file size image (i.e. a large TIFF file)? Check out WeTransfer.com, a slick way to upload images to the cloud that can then be downloaded by anyone with an e-mail address.

I've used a similar web site service to transfer images in the past (Dropbox) but recently a client asked me to transmit images using WeTransfer. Ever since then, I've been using it regularly and find it a much simpler, no hassle and effective way to do the same thing. The service is free as long as the upload involves a total of less than 2 GB (that's a lot of files/images, even high res). but you can always sign up for a cost based option that allows you to transfer more GBs. So far, I haven't had a reason to use anything but the free version.

OK, so how do you do it? First, google WeTransfer or go to www.wetransfer.com. Once you're on the site, you'll see a box on the left side (you may have to skip an ad to sign up for their cost-based service). 

Type in the e-mail address for the recipient in the "Friend's email" field (note that you can input as many e-mail addresses as you want), Type in your e-mail address in the field below the recipient's address, and add any message you want to include, such as, "Attached are the images from today's photo shoot." The next step is to click on the "+ Add files" button near the top, select the images you want to send that are stored on your computer, and finally click on the "Transfer" button at the bottom.

WeTransfer will begin to upload your images to the cloud and within a matter of minutes your files will be uploaded and available for the recipient(s) to download them. As soon as the upload is complete, the recipient(s) will receive an auto generated e-mail that notifies them of the files' availability for download and you receive an e-mail that advises you the files were successfully uploaded and available for the recipient(s) to download. Another nice feature is the e-mail you receive when the recipient(s) download the image files, sent to you automatically once they do so.

Easy Peezy. Lemon Squeezy. It's free, simple to use, and much more convenient than burning discs. Give it a try next time you want to transmit images to someone.

Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Quick & Easy Head Shots

Many businesses that have web sites include a page or pages featuring head shots of its employees. One type of business that almost always uses head shots of its employees on its web site is a law firm. Google any law firm that is of any size and you will find a link for a comprehensive list of its attorneys. Each attorney will have a link for his or her own page that includes their educational and professional experience along with ... a head shot.

Since law firms want to present their attorneys in the most flattering manner possible, they usually have the head shots done professionally. That's where you, the wily professional photographer, comes in. You can do a quick and easy head shot session on site if you set yourself up with a minimum of gear and use some basic lighting techniques. From there, very profitable photography gigs can follow as you develop a reputation for being a capable web site head shot photographer.

I just finished doing one of these head shot gigs last week for a law firm that is revamping its web site. It's a small firm so the shoot involved seven attorneys and the firm's office manager (one of the attorneys was out of town and will come into the studio for her head shot in the near future to finish up the job). From the time I left my studio until I returned, which included an hour driving to and from the firm's offices, less than three hours elapsed. Afterwards, I spent approximately an hour downloading the images, selecting the best one of each person, and running them through Photoshop. Including the time it will take to shoot the last attorney, I will have devoted a little over four hours for the entire job. Oh, and I received a nice check for my effort before I left the firm's offices the day of the shoot, paid in full for the job.


The image above depicts the gear I took with me. The two aluminum cases on the left contained three Photogenic 600W/second monolights that I picked up on eBay a while back for a total of less than $200 (with cases). I could have opted to go with speedlights but since I have the monolights packed up for things just like this I went with the monolights. I only used two on this job but took a third as a spare. The smaller aluminum case also contained power cords, extension cords, a spare bulb for the moonlights, a flash meter, and three pocket wizards to trigger the lights. With a two light setup, two pocket wizards suffice (one on the camera and one on the key light - the other monolight will fire via its slave sensor), but I always assume something might not work right so I packed an extra pocket wizard, monolight and an extra bulb.

The camera bag on top of the small aluminum case contained two camera bodies (again, redundancy in case of a failure), a 70-200mm f2.8 lens (my go-to portrait lens), an 18-200mm f3.5-5.6 lens (another great portrait lens, a spare just in case), and an 85mm f1.8 lens (another sharp portrait lens, just in case). I took a stool on which the subjects could sit since I was fairly confident the law office would not have one for me to use. The black bag on the left contained a portable backdrop stand and a roll of 53" wide grey seamless paper. The black bag on the right contained three light stands, two to use and the third as a backup. Last but not least, I packed two softboxes, a 9"X36" gridded strip box to use as my fill light and a 2'X3' box to use as my key light. For head shots, you don't need anything bigger as these boxes are more than enough to light head shots. 




I'll digress for a moment to elaborate on the speed light option. Several companies make brackets designed to attach a typical strobe to a soft box (as shown above). These lights can be triggered with pocket wizards or infrared triggers. Using speedlights is certainly a less expensive way to adequately light head shots and if you don't have access to monolights and have speedlights, by all means use them. Another option is to simply use one light (monolight or speedlight) for the key light and a reflector for fill. It's simpler and less equipment intensive but I prefer to use a two light setup when possible with monolights. If electrical power is not available (as in shooting in a remote location), Plan B is my speedlights.

Once I arrived at the law firm, it took less than a half hour to set up in the lobby. This was the location that provided plenty of room for not only the lighting setup but for me to use my 70-200mm lens at a 135mm to 150mm focal length which I find to be a good portrait focal length. I could have set up in the firm's large conference room (behind the backdrop) but it would have required moving the large conference room table to one side. Since the lobby was available that's where I set up.

The large softbox (left) was my key light and the strip box was the fill. Using a pocket wizard, my flash meter, and myself as a guinea pig sitting on the stool, I adjusted the power of the key light to f11 at 1/125th second, ISO 200. The power of the strip light (right) was adjusted to f8 so as to give me a slight shadow on the fill side but nothing dramatic. The lights were positioned approximately three feet from the subjects to create a soft, flattering light (Lighting 101 - the further lights are positioned from a subject, the harsher the light becomes).

I've posted some examples of the images from the shoot. For each person, I took several shots like those on the left side, i.e. from the head to just below the hands. I asked each person to sit up straight at a 45 degree angle to me and then turn their head to face me. Some of the shots were with full smiles, some with no smile, and some with something in between. After I downloaded the card, I chose the image I thought was most flattering for each individual and ran them through Photoshop and OnOne Software's Perfect Portrait and Perfect Effects. After opening the RAW files in Photoshop CC, I used the Camera Raw filter in to adjust exposure, highlights, whites, shadows, and blacks, adding a bit of contrast, clarity and vibrance. The Spot Healing tool, Patch tool, and clone tool were used to eliminate blemishes and shine. I only used Perfect Portrait to brighten the men's eyes and judiciously whiten the teeth. With the females, I used some of the skin smoothing/wrinkle softening features but very modestly. Finally, I used the Portrait Sharpen feature in Perfect Effects as the final step and then cropped the images into the final head and shoulders head shots (images on the right).

There you have it - quick, easy, simple head shots on site. This kind of photography is not going to tap into your creativity or generate "wow" images that will dazzle your friends but it can be a steady source of income that pays the bills. That's always a good thing.

Monday, April 28, 2014

The Fireplace Mantle - A Father/Son Project For A Surpirse Birthday Present

The finished fireplace mantle
A few months ago, my son asked if I would help him build a stone mantle for the fireplace in his living room. The mantle was to be a birthday surprise for his wife so we would have to plan to do it when she was out of town on business. Some 30 plus years ago I installed a fireplace in our first home and trimmed it out with stone. When I finished it, I swore I would never, EVER, build anything involving stone, mortar, and/or grout, but how could I possibly say no to helping the male offspring unit surprise our daughter-in-law? So, this is the story of this past week's father-son labor of love as memorialized by intermittent iPhone photos taken during the project.

The fireplace - before the project
Last week, while spending Easter weekend with the family in Central Florida, Mikey (Mike to his friends, but Mikey to me & the family) mentioned that Danielle would be out of town Wednesday through Saturday this week. He asked if I could come back down to Central Florida to build the mantle with him and luckily the timing was good for me work wise. On the Saturday before Easter, we told Danielle that we were going to visit some camera stores, using that as an excuse to sneak out of the house and head to local stone suppliers and Lowes. It was a fruitful excursion - we found stone that matched the existing fireplace wall (image above); settled on a basic design using cinder blocks, mortar, and two 6-foot pieces of 2" heavy duty angle iron for the "frame"; and figured out what tools/supplies/material we would need.

The materials
Pre-construction test fit with the blocks & angle iron
Building the frame

On Wednesday morning, I left Tallahassee for the 4 1/2 hour drive south. As I drove down, Mikey bought the cinder clocks, mortar, angle iron and grout that we would be using and had it ready to be unloaded and taken into the house as soon as I arrived. No sooner than I pulled up into his driveway we unloaded and did a quick test fit of the cinder blocks/angle iron to visualize how the mantle would look. We mixed up a batch of mortar and it wasn't long before we were building the two column supports for the mantle with the cinder blocks. 

The finished frame
Mikey worked the left column as I worked the right one and after six  8" cinder blocks were mortared in on each side, we placed the angle iron from one column to the other and mortared in the mantle support blocks. That was the last thing that went smoothly as from then on, just about everything we did was a challenge. Those YouTube videos we watched to familiarize ourselves with the work to be done made it look easy to slap stone, mortar and grout onto vertical surfaces but real life was a whole different experience for two guys with more ambition than skill or experience.

Applying mortar to the vertical surfaces for the scratch coat - not fun
In order for the stones to properly adhere to the vertical wall surfaces, a coat of mortar had to be applied to the cinder block surfaces, after which it had to be raked. No matter how we tried to come up with different consistencies of mortar, getting it to adhere to the cinder block surfaces was a chore. More often than not, it would start to go on and then globs would fall off. We spent a lot of time re-applying and re-re-applying mortar than applying it but we were determined not to let it stop us.

The finished scratch coat, raked and ready for stone
By 8:00 pm, the scratch coat was finished and we had the living room cleaned up. It was time for a late dinner and some sleep. 

The next morning, we went to the stone supplier and spent a couple of hours sorting through two pallets of stone, picking the right shapes and color, and placing them on an empty pallet to be loaded into the bed of Mikey's truck. 400 pounds of stone later, we headed to Lowes for some advice as to how to adhere the stone to the underside of the cinder blocks that would form the mantle. After a couple of hours of talking to every employee in the building materials section, the tile section, and the adhesives section, we decided to use mega strength construction adhesive, bought a couple of tubes, and headed home. 

We offloaded the stone pieces and carried them inside, and being the impatient sort that I am, I was ready to start mortaring the stone to the scratch coat right away. However, Mikey thought we should follow the instructions on the mortar bags to the letter, i.e. wait 24 hours for the mortar to fully cure. That meant starting to apply stone no earlier than 8:00 pm. I knew that meant we were in for a long night and sure enough midnight came and went and we were still working on the stone surface. Part of the reason why it took so long was my having difficulty getting the !$^&@#! stone to stay stuck on the scratch coat. Several pieces of the stone I tried to apply went on, appeared to adhere, and then would fall off as I moved on to the next stone. Mikey didn't have this problem as none of his stones came off after he placed them but the Stone Gods were not with me that night.

The stone after being applied to the cinder blocks
At 2:30 am we used up the last bit of mixed mortar but the right inside column, the top, and the underside of the mantle was still unfinished. We were so wasted we decided to call it a night and cleaned up, leaving the rest of the stone to be applied the next day.

Two more stones to go before finishing the inside of the right column
Even though my head didn't hit the pillow until 3:00 am, I was up at 7:00 am on Friday and began waiting for Mikey to get up. At 8:00 am, I decided to mix some mortar and finished applying the stone to the top of the mantle. As I was finishing, Sleeping Beauty came out and tackled the inside of the right column. 

Next came the underside, which we figured was going to be the biggest challenge of the project. Applying gobs of adhesive to the stone, Mikey placed each stone under the mantle cinder blocks and held them in place as I wedged 4-foot 1x2's into place to support each stone. The stones appeared to stay in place and it was now lunchtime, a good place to stop as we got ready for the last step - applying the white grout to match the existing fireplace wall.

Happy Birthday, Danielle
After gorging on some pulled pork at a local BBQ establishment, we tackled the grouting process. Mikey applied the grout as I worked it between the stone with my fingers. Intermittently, I would smooth over lumpy areas and brushed away loose debris as the grout dried. This went on for several hours as we went through two 60-pound bags of grout. At midnight, Mikey began cleaning the disaster we had made out of the house while I finished up and by 1:00 am the grout job was finished and the house was clean - sort of. With Danielle expected home Saturday, not only did the project have to be finished by Saturday, the house couldn't look like a bomb had gone off during her absence.

I left Saturday morning with the mantle in place, a great three days of quality time spent with the male offspring unit, and aches/pains/soreness in places I forgot I had. Every time I visit Mikey & Danielle, I will have a great reminder of those three days staring me in the face. I only wish I had been there when Danielle came in the house and saw her surprise. Happy Birthday, D.